Afternoon Tea at The Ritz London Review: Inside the Stunning New Refurbishment

I have a confession. I thought I knew The Ritz.

I had afternoon tea there two years ago. I ate Christmas dinner there twice as a teenager, which sounds far posher than it was, I promise. I knew the gilded corridors, the Palm Court, the whole glorious routine. So when Charlie and I walked through those famous revolving doors on a scorching Saturday in August, I was expecting a lovely, familiar afternoon.

The Ritz is partway through a £300 million refurbishment, the biggest in its history, and I had absolutely no idea quite how much had changed. This is my honest, self funded review of afternoon tea at The Ritz London in 2026. The good, the surprising, and the one thing nobody warns you about before you arrive.

We arrived by taxi, slightly laden down with bags from our stay at The Marylebone the night before. Before we had even straightened ourselves out, the doorman had them out of our hands. He assumed we were checking in, and when we explained we were only here for tea, he whisked everything up to the cloakroom without a flicker. The doormen at The Ritz, in those beautiful hats and immaculate uniforms, remain some of the best in the business.

The entrance has been completely transformed. Gilded gold everywhere, chandeliers catching the light, mirrored panels running along the walls. I knew works were happening. I did not know the whole building was being reimagined. Reception now sits on the right, where the famous Rivoli Bar used to be, with the concierge and a beautifully lit restaurant on the left where the Palm Court once served tea. I said to Charlie that it felt like arriving at The Ritz for the very first time.

And here is the thing. There is still construction going on behind the scenes, with works expected to run until 2028, and you would never, ever know. Not a sound, not a dust sheet in sight. They really are professionals at hospitality here.

We arrived half an hour early, so we asked about a pre tea drink. We were pointed downstairs, where the Rivoli Bar now lives, or out to the new Secret Garden. It was 28 degrees and glorious, so the garden it was. A pianist was singing, the terrace was buzzing, and we were shown to a lovely shaded table.

The Secret Garden has a minimum spend of £75. Per person. With the Ruinart at £44 a glass, that is achievable if you are settling in for the afternoon. But there is no place on earth worth £150 for a 30 minute drink, and Charlie and I looked at each other and said exactly that. So we made our apologies and headed back inside.

I am not telling you this to put you off. If you have a couple of hours, drinks in the Secret Garden would be genuinely lovely. I am telling you because we used to pop into The Ritz for one beautiful £25 cocktail, and those days are gone. Know before you go, and plan your timings around it.

Afternoon tea is no longer served by the Palm Court. Instead, you are led down a corridor into William Kent House, and I need you to prepare yourself, because the room took my breath away.

Crimson damask walls. Gold framed mirrors and oil paintings. And above it all, an ornate painted ceiling in gold and jewel tones that you could stare at for the full sitting and still keep finding new details. Tables dressed in cream linen, a pianist playing throughout, and that low, happy hum of people having the loveliest day. We were among the first to arrive for the 1.30pm sitting, and watching the room fill up was a show in itself.

I asked Rudy, one of our waiters, whether he missed the old Palm Court. He said he did, and that tea will eventually return there once the renovation is complete. Until then, honestly, I am not sure I would rush it back.

There are 20 loose leaf teas on the menu, and The Ritz is the only hotel in the UK with a certified Tea Master, who travels the world sourcing them. So hear me when I say this. Do not order English breakfast. You can have English breakfast anywhere. Apparently most people still do, and it makes me want to weep gently into my teacup.

Now for the serious business. The finger sandwiches arrive beautifully presented, and here is the first thing they do not shout about: they are replenishable. When Rudy spotted our empty plate, he simply said he would bring us another tray. We did not have to ask. If you want an entire plate of just the smoked salmon, you can have it.

Between us, Charlie and I got through 24 finger sandwiches. I am not ashamed. And because we take these things very seriously at The Chic Explorer, we ranked all six.

6. Cucumber with cream cheese, dill and mint on granary. Lovely, classic, but somebody has to come last.

5. Cheddar cheese with chutney on tomato bread. Charlie announced he was starting with the worst, took a bite, and his face changed entirely. Who knew a cheese and pickle sandwich could taste that good.

4. Breast of chicken with tarragon creamed mayonnaise on malt bread.

3. Egg mayonnaise with chopped shallots and watercress on a brioche roll.

2. Scottish smoked salmon with lemon butter on sourdough.

1. Ham with grain mustard mayonnaise on brioche. I do not even eat ham. It was absolutely delicious, and I stand by this ranking.

Here is the part I really want you to remember. By the time the pastries were due, we were completely full, and so, it seemed, was everyone around us. Because here is what regulars know: you can take the pastries home. Look around the room and you will notice nobody is touching the top tier. Little boxes go home with everybody. Now you know too.

For the record, the pastries riding home in our box included a pineapple and pine nut tartlet, a strawberry and ginger mousse, and a dark chocolate and vanilla choux. Eaten on the sofa that evening, still in our finery in spirit if not in fact, they were every bit as good as they looked on the trolley.

Just when we thought it was over, Alan appeared with the cake trolley and offered us a choice of carrot cake or lemon cake, then suggested cutting a slice of each so we could try both. Lemon is more my street, Charlie is a carrot cake man, and despite being fuller than I have ever been, we sat there laughing our heads off and eating cake anyway. That is the magic of the place. You always find room.

Three waiters looked after us: Gabrielle, who welcomed us and talked us through the teas, Alan, who presented the cakes, and Rudy, who kept the sandwiches coming and chatted to me about the history of the building and the original architecture. He took our photographs, told us about the celebrities he was looking forward to seeing when the Palm Court returns, and was simply jolly in a way that makes an afternoon.

It was not a birthday. It was not an anniversary. They made it feel like a celebration anyway, and that, more than the chandeliers, is what you are paying for.

Book ridiculously early. I booked our 1.30pm Saturday slot six months in advance. The 11.30am and 1.30pm sittings go first, especially at weekends, and there are five sittings daily at 11.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm, 5.30pm and 7.30pm, each lasting about an hour and 45 minutes.

Afternoon tea costs £95 per person, with champagne extra from £25 a glass and a discretionary 12.5% service charge added to the bill. Dietary menus, including vegan, vegetarian and gluten free, are available if you request them in advance.

The dress code is real. Gentlemen need a shirt, jacket and tie, and jeans, trainers and sportswear are not permitted. Charlie wore the full works in 28 degree London heat and still says it was completely worth it.

And remember the Secret Garden minimum spend of £75 per person if you fancy drinks before or after.

Couples marking an occasion, or inventing one. Mothers and daughters. Anyone who loved The Ritz before and wants to fall for it all over again post refurbishment. Overseas visitors who want the single most London afternoon that exists. It is less suited to anyone in a hurry, on a tight budget, or allergic to putting on a tie in summer.

Afternoon tea at The Ritz London is not cheap, it requires planning, and the days of a casual drop in drink are behind us. And yet.

The refurbishment has made a legendary hotel feel brand new. The tea is some of the best I have ever tasted, the sandwiches are replenishable until you surrender, the cake goes home in a little box, and Gabrielle, Alan and Rudy delivered the kind of warm, instinctive service that no amount of gold leaf can buy. We left full, happy and already planning our return.

Completely worth it. Charlie agrees, and he was the one in the tie.

Afternoon tea at The Ritz London costs £95 per adult and £73 per child. Champagne is extra, starting at £25 for a 150ml glass, and a discretionary 12.5% service charge is added to the bill.

Book as early as you possibly can. I booked six months ahead for a Saturday 1.30pm sitting. The earlier sittings sell out first, especially at weekends.

Gentlemen must wear a jacket and tie, and jeans, trainers, shorts and sportswear are not permitted. Children under 16 are exempt from the dress code.

Yes. If you are too full for the pastries, and you will be, the team will happily box them up for you to take home. Most guests do exactly this.

Yes, the finger sandwiches and tea are replenishable on request, and often without you even needing to ask. You can also request more of a specific favourite.